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Customers need to choose the number of momme according to its usage. Larger number momme is better than smaller ones which is not always suitable all the time. As customers, you should buy the right products instead of the expensive items.
There are two kinds of gray cloth in silk industry, printing gray cloth and dyed gray cloth. The differences between them lie in defective rate of fabric. Because most Chinese silk fabric products are exported to Europe and the United States, the universal-used American Four Point System is adopted.
For the naturalness of silk fabric, gray cloth is never perfect. Blemishes are unavoidable. Some fabric suppliers tend to describe their products as good or poor, printing or dyed gray cloth by consciously or unconsciously hiding the real standard of silk fabric quality which judges the fabric by the number of its blemishes. There are American standard, European standard, International standard and so on. The most commonly adopted is American Four Point System. According to this system, the less points lose, the better the fabric is. Without losing a single point, the fabric can be called the finest. There are five levels from high to low in American Four Point System, namely, losing only 15 points, 20 points, 25 points, 40 points and 60 points. The fabric of the first three levels are called dyed gray cloth while the fabric of the latter levels are printing gray cloth. The reason why the standard of dyed gray cloth is higher than that of printing gray cloth is that pure-colored fabric is easier to find blemishes while dyed one is difficult to find blemishes because of pigment.
Here are some excerpts of American Four Point System.
Standard for Evaluation
One point: blemish with a length of three inches or less
Two points: blemish with a length of between three and six inches
Three points: blemish with a length of between six and nine inches
Four points: blemish with a length of more than inches
A.No more than four points shall be lost in a yard with its all blemishes in the waft and the weft.
B.Four points are lost for serious blemishes of each yard. For example, all the holes, no matter how small they are, lose four points.
C.Four points are lost if blemishes occur continuously, such as uneven dyeing, folding, and color difference.
D.No matter the kind and the direction of blemishes, points shall be lost based on the principle of visibility and standard.
E.Apart from special regulation (like coated fabric), it is only to check the face side of fabric.
Standard for dying
The selection of dye is closely connected with color fastness, gloss, and security.
Firstly, color fastness includes saliva fastness and light fastness. The former is used for baby’s products while the latter indicates the danger of sunlight and lamplight. Silk fabric items should never been exposed to strong sunlight which may cause them unevenly-colored and hardened. As for lamplight, customers need not worry but clothing and embroidery factories should pay much attention.
Secondly, the selection of dye decides the gloss of fabric. Nowadays, acid dye and reactive dye are commonly utilized. The former enjoys a better luster, mainly used for bright and gorgeous colors and available for secondary dyeing. But its disadvantages are low color fastness and some odors. The latter has an edge of higher color fastness but it is unavailable for secondary dyeing and its colors are relatively dull.
Some customers may ignore this significant part. However, exported products must pass the AZO test and formaldehyde detection because silk fabric items are usually close-fitting.
It is impossible to judge whether a fabric is silk or not just by touching. The most accurate way is to burn it. Besides, customers had better know a formula by which you can roughly estimate the gram. Gram=momme ×4.3056×width×meters.
There is no perfect silk fabric without any blemishes due to its naturalness. As long as the blemishes are tolerable, the silk fabric is still good.
Some people think that the fabric with more momme is best suitable for making ties. Not exactly. Heavy-weight silk fabric refers to the fabric of 30-40 momme, which is great for the customized dress, cheongsam and coat as well.